ITALY & GREECE.
Venice, Sunset at Rialto bridge
Cover the earth before it covers you.
Was searching online for a suitable tagline (as usual) for the upcoming post and came cross this, I thought it's rather humorous, and so very true. For we all will turn into a pinch of dust and return to the Earth, someday. Anyhow, Lnr and I took twelve precious (more precious to me for he has plenty) annual leave and embarked on a nineteen days trip to southern Europe - spanning across seven places in two countries ( or three if we consider Vatican is a city-state of its own). As with the past trips, it was two and half happy weeks spent with Lnr as we gazed at the marvellous marble status in amazement; watched the same sun sets into the horizon; revelled in palatable local cuisines; and snapping a thousand pictures.
We booked the flight tickets five months in advance and spent the next couple months planning our itineraries, booking train and accommodations one weekend at a time. All of a sudden we had to start packing because the trip is right at the corner. How delightful. Though I had what I recall as the 'busiest week of all my career life till date' right before we flew off, but it was all for a marvellous trips so yeap.
ONE. ROME.
Colosseum, Rome
Imperial Forum, Rome
It's interesting to think about not just the history but the entire timeline of many of these ancient ruins, from it's heyday as the busiest city centre thousands of years ago, to it's change of use over it's rulers, to it's downfall and being robbed of it's stones for other constructions and deterioration from natural disasters, and eventually it's growing recognition as a world heritage/tourism-milking site with conservation swarming in since the 1960s.
Standing above the Imperial Forum, it was hard to imagine that human civilisation had come such a long way, and that 2000 years ago, humans then weren't that difference from us after all. Centre foe politics, religion and economy were all in place since the ancient times.
Imperial Forum, Rome. Inaugurated by Julia Caesar, completed by Augustus
On the second day, we went to the Galleria Borghese, situated within a huge villa and a vast open green space, where many impressive masterpieces made of marble are being housed currently. It's a shame that I knew so little about the European history and culture. The level of details and shaping of the human movement truly impressed me during the visit, how could every muscle movement be captured to realistic on a piece of marble stone. Just look at all the talents we have in this world. During the trip Lnr and I also spoke on how the art scenes have changed over the human history, how representation of art and human varies with time, and a little on our post-modern abstract art displayed in gallery now, that builds a lot on imagination and self interpretations.
Baroque marble statue - Apollo and Daphne, by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
Anyhow, the statue was inspired by a tale from the Roman poem accounting the following:
One day Apollo (God of Light and Poetry) teased an arrow-wielding Cupid, calling him too young a boy to be fit to handle such dangerous weapons. Out of spite, Cupid then pricked him with one of his amour-inducing arrows, causing the god to fall madly in love with the passing-by river nymph Daphne. However, Daphne was devoted to the goddess Diana, and had resolved never to marry and to remain a virgin for her entire life.When Apollo pursued her, driven by his lust, she ran away in panic, calling to her father the river God to help her.
'Destroy the beauty that has injured me, or change the body that destroys my life.'
Before her prayer was ended, torpor seized on all her body, and a thin bark closed around her gentle bosom, and her hair became as moving leaves; her arms were changed to waving branches, and her active feet as clinging roots were fastened to the ground—her face was hidden with encircling leaves. Even like this Phoebus loved her and, placing his hand against the trunk, he felt her heart still quivering under the new bark. He clasped the branches as if they were parts of human arms, and kissed the wood. But even the wood shrank from his kisses, and the god said:
"Since you cannot be my bride, you must be my tree! Laurel, with you my hair will be wreathed, with you my lyre, with you my quiver. You will go with the Roman generals when joyful voices acclaim their triumph, and the Capitol witnesses their long processions. You will stand outside Augustus's doorposts, a faithful guardian, and keep watch over the crown of oak between them. And just as my head with its uncropped hair is always young, so you also will wear the beauty of undying leaves."
St Peter's square, Vatican City
We spent the next day at Vatican city, an independent state located in the heart of Rome rule by the Pope, home to well, more Roman sculptures and Renaissance frescos. It was a somewhat intense and info-overload crash course on the Roman Catholics and the numerous past Popes with the aid of audio-guide for us. But in all honesty I remember none of the Pope name 2 weeks after the trip.
TWO. FLORENCE.
Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Moving on we took a train to Florence - the heart of the Renaissance. It took me awhile to truly understood what renaissance is all about. To put simply, it's a period from 14th to 17th century which revived/repromoted classical philosophy, literature and art. Commonly seen as a transition period that bridged the Middle age with the Modern age. Hence, we continued our journey to visit more iconic painting, sculptures and architects. Florence was a small town, and in my opinion, might have never attracted millions each year if weren't for the few 镇店之宝 they had.
Birth of Venus, by Sandro Botticilli. At Uffizi Gallery
David, by Michelangelo. At Accademia Gallery
Piazza Michelangelo, Sunset
Venchi Italy, Florence
The Cathedral of Florence is a typical Italian Gothic building, covered by coloured marble which were really charming. I feel that the different shade of white, green and pink compliments each other really well as a whole that I wish I could bring a piece of it home myself. In fact, almost everything we visited are covered, or was once covered with marbles. Marble is undeniably such majestic and beautiful natural stone. :')
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence
We wrapped up Florence in 2 days with ample time to hang around the street and enjoy our meals at a slow pace. The amount of good food we had surprised me pleasantly this trip since I had little expectations to begin with but aha, Italian food and dessert can become really addictive Hehehe.
Top of the cathedral dome, Florence
THREE. CINQUE TERRE.
Monterosso al mare beach
In general the houses are all painted mostly in pastel hues and made the whole place really picturesque and I couldn't stop snapping photos along the way. We stayed in one of the mustard colored house with a small daisy garden and a lemon tree. Oh yes there are so many lemon/other citrus trees in the villages it's literally everywhere~ We stayed at the village furthest away from the main station which albeit I regretted a little on the first day because of the additional time wasted since we need to leave the next day, but eventually I was more than happy to be able to stroll around the small place the next morning before we leave.
Colorful houses everywhere
Any casual photo of the shop front can be so pleasing to the eyes and brighten up your mood at that moment. Every thing goes so well and you simply can't recreate this feeling back here in Singapore haha. Well maybe the weather plays an crucial part. Did I mention the weather was really good with windy breeze when we were there?
We trekked from village 1 where we were staying to village 3, which took us 3-4 hours. I though it was a easy trek but well, ended up it was xiao challenging esp at the start where there just seem to be endless steps to go up to. And coincidentally of all places, I actually met a colleague along the hiking route, what's the chance! Apart from the uphill steps, the trek was a pleasant one with bao (new nick for lnr), we stopped for freshly squeezed orange juice along the way, had our lunch at the second village before continuing the trek. We couldn't trek all the way due to route closure and also we were running out of time.
Riomagiorre, Cinque Terre
We took the local train to the very last village Riomagiorre before heading backwards to the 4th village for sunset. I think every experience and factor adds up and made it my favorate place of the trip. And perhaps also because we can finally take a little break from the sculptures, painting and cathedrals HAHAHA. Nature beauty is most easily appreciated after all.
Manarola, sunset
The Cinque terre national park is listed under the UNESCO heritage site and as I have read, it was a hidden gem that's getting increasing popular among tourist. May visitors and locals love and conserve the charm of this place together, may the water continue to sparkle just like today decades down the road, may we appreciate the nature a little more to help it last a little longer. But throughout different trips we had, the question of tourism being a boon or bane always come up between bao and me, and there is endless arguments to support each camp. Whose responsibility does it ultimately fall on? What is truly sustainable tourism or is everything an exploitation by capitalist? Boo.
FOUR. VENICE.
On water bus, Venice
For the last stop in Italy, we have arrived in Venice - floating/sinking city. Matter of fact, Venice was built mostly on wood and is sinking since it was built as the weight pushes down the mud it was built on and compacting the soil bit by bit. I thought there is some resemblance between Venice and Singapore, emerge from a muddy, waterlogged land to a busy trading port. Except that Venice today doesn't seem to do as well and is largely dependent on tourism. And because of which increased the housing cost for the locals on the main land and some can no longer afford to live in city centre.
Al Ponte Mocenigo Hotel, Venice
And expensive it is indeed, one night of accommodation in Venice cost us a grand S$230. One of the most expensive stay we had in the trip. Fortunately it was also the posh-est decorated hotel we stayed in. Reminds me very much of the Schonbunn Palace - one of the first extravagant imperial palace I have visited during my first Europe trip.
Hotel Al Ponte, Venice
Venice has always been marketed as one of the world's most romantic cities; a gondola ride into the sunset, a kiss at the St Mark's square, though I guess it's more of to each his own. Personally I did not find the city relates to 'romance' that much. In fact, it made me wonder what're my deciding factor to whether or not a city is romantic, it's really hard to pin point them. Sometimes it could be just a feeling in the moment at a random place, it could be a quiet garden full of maple leaves, a stroll by the stream where clear water flows, looking up to a sky full of stars during a 4am hike. Moments where you come across small lil pleasant surprises when you least expect it. Or maybe even the most memorising risotto (Italian rice cooked with broth) I had below. One thing I would remember for sure is falling in love with risottos during my Italy trip~
Rissoto
Despite having only one full day in Venice, we managed to cover most of the places on our planned itinerary- including the two neighbouring islands Murano and Burano. Though we spent a big bulk of time queuing for the waterbus with the rest of the tourists on the day. Similar to Cinque Terre, Burano is a small island with colorful houses that was meant for fishermen to recognise their home from afar. Tho I still preferred Cinque more for the choice of palette used hehe.
burano, Venice
We ended the day back the main island and I was very intrigued by the roman clock tower at the St Marks' square. I think fanciful/(and most of the time) redundant gadget always catches my eye a lot. Most of the time I wish I could just think like and be like a child forever, I wish things are simple as I perceive them to be, I wish there will always be a bao that dotes and loves me, I wish that I can keep my fascination with childish purchases all life long. Hurhur.
St Mark's clock tower, Venice
Alas, with that, we made our way to our next country - Greece.
FIVE. ATHENS
The Erechtheion, Acropolis, Athens.
The main attraction in Athens is known as the 'Acropolis' - a citadel of the ancient Greek city on a hill dated to the 5th century BC. The ancient Greek civilisation achieved great architectural and cultural complex during it's heydays: the Olympics; modern philosophy; theatre plays and democracy just to name a few. Within the Acropolis there is a number of temples dedicated to the Greek Gods. While tbh I don't remember most of the details in each museum I have visited, one strong impression they have left is that both the Roman and Greeks really love marbles (so do I!), they are omnipresent and I wonder if this where all the marbles are being used such that a small piece of marble shelf in my en suite toilet was quoted $200 back then hmph.
Acropolis museum, athens
We bought the three days museum pass and visited most of the 7 historical sites, if not all within the 2 days there since they are located pretty close and accessible on foot. The additional ticket we got for the acropolis museum was very informative too and honestly, we might have understood very little about acropolis without it. Somehow we humans all takes some interest in the distant past, in understanding a world before us, in trying to relate with the prehistoric humans and be awe at how much smarter they actually were than we have assumed. And by understanding our ancestors' way of life, maybe we get to know ourselves a little more too.
Panathenaic stadium, athens
.While in Athens, we also popped to the stadium where the first Olympic games was held in 1896, to think about it, it's not difficult to link the origin of Olympic with the Greeks considering their emphasis in physical masculinity and combat sports since the ancient times. Throughout the trip, almost all of the marble figurine statues are portrayed in a youthful, lean and masculine physique, probably the body type that was celebrated during those times. Well maybe even now. On the right background of the photo above, you can see the acropolis on the hill too, it's truly something remarkable and won't be missed. Well again...I am not sure what's left of Athens for visitors who skip the Acropolis.
SIX. METEORA
Thereafter, we took a 5 hours train ride towards central Greece - a small town with steep rock formations, famous for it's monasteries built on the top of the giant cliffs by Orthodox monks to stay unseen and hide from the Turkish attacks.While it was a spectacular sight to learn that the monasteries were built with no machinery help over a long span of time, today many of the monasteries are vacant, with the remaining ones functioning with very few monks/nuns.
Despite a minor ankle sprain, bao and I went ahead with our two pre-booked tours. The sunset tour on the first day was mainly for sightseeing and visiting the monasteries/ cathedrals with a local guide. The scrambling tour on the following morning was a challenging yet exciting steep hike/rock climb up one of the step rock for us~ To be frank I did not know what I have signed ourselves up for prior t until we saw our guide fully equipped with harness ropes, helmets and safety harness when he met us. And thus we began a scary journey up.
I think I have been much much much timid when I was younger? I remember my trembling feet during the high ropes challenging, I remember a 3m jetty jump freaked me out, I remember my heart goes weak when I look down from a height, but over the years I guess I gathered more courage, perhaps a lot credits to me choosing to exercise a lot more and becoming more physically fit/confident. I tried hiking a few mountains, managed to complete the high ropes challenge without the mini breakdowns, though I am still trying to step out from the comfort zone a little at a time with the pole dance and bouldering practised. The fear of failing and falling was always the biggest mental block.
Even during the climb, the fear kept coming back to me. Whenever the guide told me to lean back and let the rope hold my weight, when he told me the climb despite the wobbling rocks rolling down beneath my feet; what if it snaps, what if I slips. But convincing my 25 y.o self was easier than the 15 y.o me, at least. Eventually we made it and as with every climb, we spent less than a quarter of the time descending. I think I would like to do it again elsewhere, I think I will continue to challenge myself physically, because of the enjoyment it brings at the end of the day when you did the unthinkable.
SEVEN. SANTORINI
Marizen villa and cave, Santorini
I would think that Santo did a fairly good job in their marketing campaign, because the advertised is better than the reality HAHAH. I did enjoy going around the small buildings and caves, popping into one small shop after another. But our trip was very much spent playing hide and seek with the rain and wind as well. Rule #1 when travelling is to be dressed in comfort before we talk about any sort of enjoyment I feel. And despite the indecisive me spent up to 2 months in advance of my trips to plan for the outfits, I never seem to hit the perfect balance during my travels. Note to self: to layer my outfits better so as to better adjust and adapt to the weather while travelling.
Atlantis bookstore, Oia
A wonderful and nicely decorated cozy bookstore at the basement we came across in Oia, the store was filled with famous quotes, atlas and well cherished first edition publications. I wonder if it would be nice to run a bookstore? Well. my aspirations used to be running a florist or gown shop when I was younger, I wanted to take up a part time job in floristry or wedding industry, but I never landed up in any. And now. I think I no longer dream about running any of that. In fact, I don't think I have any aspiration anymore. Maybe I'm getting used to the lifestyle now. Alas.
Three blue domes, Oia
In the midst of the gloomy sky there, we had some short window of sunshine shining through the cloud. Where everyone around us start removing their jacket and go into model shoot mode. Here we are at the iconic three blue domes behind us, though I am not exactly sure why is it that famous, maybe because it happened to be iconic somehow? Though I read that the villagers in the past started using white and blue paints for their houses purely because blue paint is cheap and readily available, and also because blue and white helps to cool down the interior during the hot summer~
We spent the first day wondering around the town we stayed in, before heading far out for wine tasting... not knowing that a miserable night waited ahead of us HAHAHA. After the wine tasting, we couldn't find the right public bus stop and got stranded with a few other lost tourist souls in nowhere for 2 over hours in the cold, dark night and it started to drizzle halfway. Such is life. Though eventually we manged to catch the very last bus and dashed back to our cave so not that bad after all.
Santo Winery, 10 flights wine tasting
Santo is commonly known for 4 different towns. On the second day we planned took a 20min bus ride to Fira, the town furthest from us and decide to trek back to where we stayed along the mountain sides. We were quite fickle about whether to trek or not given that the weather forecast was cloudy with rain showers as usual, but as the sun clears up after lunch, we went ahead and embark on our long, 4 hours trek back.
Fira, Santorini
The weather took a turn drastically when we were halfway and we saw the dark cumulonimbus clouds coming towards us. We tried to hasten our trek as much but the walk just seems never ending hahaha. Trekking in bad weather was no fun ya. And the second half of the trek has nothing in sight other than mountains. We were so exhausted by the time we see our Oia town from afar again, but at least we know that the end is here hahaha. Sometimes I think of trekking as 自作孽, but other days I see it as a energy booster and a medium to gain confidence in myself. Despite telling myself 'never again' as I descend from my very first mountaineering experience at snow mountain 4 years ago, I'm quite positive that I will continue to trek further and higher.
Got back in action the very next morning, and I got to sit in a mini cooper cabriolet for the first time hehehe. Mini is not a dream (not anymore, but that shall leave to tell another day). We drove out of the 4 towns and went further southwest to visit the Akrotiri ruins from the Bronze age, passing by a few beaches along the way. Hmm. nothing very fantastic but it was shook just sitting inside the mini on the road (as long as it's not bendy).
The beaches we visited aren't the typical beaches in phuket and bali, but the sand were coarse and either red or black colored. I guess summer would have been a better time to visit Santo, hence explains the peak season, and you will have to bear the crowd everywhere. There is always a trade off isn't it. It's a struggle to choose between the scenery and the crowd, in fact sometimes there won't be a choice put up for seasonal tourism like hanami viewing.
Red beach, Akrotiri, Santorini
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